From: | shadowrn@*********.com (Walter Scheper) |
---|---|
Subject: | Internal Combustion Engine and Dikote: Was Recoil |
Date: | Thu May 2 01:55:00 2002 |
[snip]
> Might help to do the bearings... but I don't buy the cylinder walls or
> pistons...
>
> Mike
> --
Actually, he's right. You've got to have the oil on the piston as well, otherwise
you're going to have too much friction and your motor will lock up when the
pistons swell beyond the tolerances of the chamber. If you avoid that then you'll
probably end up grinding down the pistons and you'll start gouging chunks out of
the chamber walls.
For those who are interested, and don't already know: most pistons have two
rings. The top one provides a seal with the cylinder wall and contains the
expansion of the burning fuel and the lower one keeps oil from leaking into the
chamber. Originally they only used one ring, but that let too much oil into the
chamber.
However Derek, you're assuming that dikoting the piston won't change how it
expands as the engine temp picks up. I'm not sure how coating a piston in a "good
heat conductor" that also happens to be extremely hard would change the piston's
fit, but I expect you'd end up needing pistons that were custom tooled to account
for whatever the change was. You're also forgetting the rest of the engine, which
probably wasn't built for whatever pressure/temperature you're going to be
running at. You're better off building a new engine from scratch that's designed
for the fuel you're using than trying to use dikote on an old engine. (This may
be what you're thinking of, but to me it sounded like you were talking about
retooling an old engine.)
--
Walter Scheper - who has finally found a use for his one ME elective :)